Friday, May 4, 2012

River cruise on the Kerala backwaters

Kerala is perhaps best known for its vast, 900 km network of backwaters. In many areas, these are so much easier to use than the roads that people rarely if ever use to travel between villages. On our second day in Fort Cochin we left our home-stay and took a cruise on a houseboat through these backwaters.

We boarded the houseboat in a town called Alleppey, just south of Fort Cochin. We booked a one room houseboat, which had a crew of two pilot/captains and a chef (who introduced himself as Chef, which amused us to no end).

This will end up being the most expensive thing we did in India, but it was well worth the price. We traveled through the canals lined with palm and mango trees, bordering rice paddies and fields of lilies. In a country where the cities are dominated by aggressive honking, barking and bleating of dogs and goats on top of normal city noise, this was one of the first times in India where we expienced true quiet.

The chef was a master. The local grilled and curried blackfish was spiced perfectly, as was a savory combination of coconut and cabbage that I know might sound odd, but really hit the spot.

After lunch we spent the afternoon lounging on the pillow at the bow, enjoying the greenery and the beautiful birds. The crew pointed out eagles with white heads, and they did look an awful lot like bald eagles. We saw a number of famed kingfisher, a lovely blue bird with a red and yellow neck for whom an airline, water, and beer company is named. The boat docked at a banana field at 5 to open the river way up to the fishermen, and Moriah and I explored the area for a bit. We were "charged" at by a baby buffalo, who was desperately looking to get his head scratched. I left Moriah to play with the buffalo a bit and went a little deeper into the banana field, where I saw a 6 foot snake slither quickly into the deeper brush. Obviously I didn't have my camera with me, otherwise I probably wouldnt have seen the snake in the first place. This was "proven" when I returned to the banana fields with my camera, and searched for another hour to no avail.

As for the type of snake it was, of course I hope it was a cobra, so I could say I saw a cobra in the wild. I did, however, want some input from an expert on this, so I asked one of our guides what kind of snakes live in the fields. He simply answered "cobra." So there it is, indisputable evidence that I saw a cobra.

Moriah and I slept very peacefully on the quiet river that night, but had a very interesting conversation over breakfast. During the peak season, there are thousands of boats, each completely unarmed, full of tourists that probably have money and passports. Sounds like the perfect place to start a piracy group, just a small ship disguised as a houseboat with some of our friends, armed to the teeth of course. Plus you'd get to live in Kerala! Who's in?

Dave

1 comment:

  1. Only if I get to be first mate.

    This argument sounds familiar. Didn't we already divide up roles in the case of us becoming pirates at some point? Maybe after one too many times on the Pirates of the Caribbean ride at Disneyland?

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